Polyquaterniums are cationic (positively charged) polymers, polyquaternium (acronym Polyquat), which help to enhance the shine and softness of hair while simultaneously reducing frizz, breakage and split ends. These molecules are excellent conditioners, especially for damaged, chemically treated or highly porous (negatively charged) hair. Polyquaterniums typically work by forming a protective film around the hair, which means they bind tightly to negatively charged hair, especially bleached or chemically treated hair. Polyquaterniums are great if you want to keep your hair for a few days, unaffected by humidity. However, due to the potential for tight binding, some of these products can also build up on the hair and cause severe buildup. They appear to bind more tightly to low porosity hair over time than to high porosity hair. As a result, low porosity hair may feel coated, while high porosity hair may become tangled and dull due to the buildup of polyquaternium salts.

Polyquaternium salts are usually water-soluble, but because they cling to the hair, they don't rinse out. Even with sulfate shampoos, some polyquaterniums can be difficult to remove. One detergent that removes polyquaterniums is C14-16 olefin sulfonate (but it may dry out the hair, so it should be used in moderation).

Like polyquaternium salts, silicones cover and bond firmly to the hair. In addition, water-insoluble silicones repel moisture, which is why many curlies who follow the Curl Care Method avoid silicone-containing products. Of course, not everyone will experience problems with hair buildup. However, if you are sensitive to buildup, you should avoid products containing polyquaternium. Highly porous curly hair has a tendency to become coarse, sticky, crusty, dull, rough, or unusually frizzy when wet, and you should try to avoid products containing polyquaterniums.

There are many different types of polyquats. Please review the list below to help you decide which polyquats may be right for you and which polyquats are in your favorite hair products.

Increasing the likelihood of buildup (high molecular weight polyquaternary ammonium salts)

Guar Hydropropyltrimonium Chloride: Guar Hydropropyltrimonium Chloride: This polyquaternary ammonium salt, while good for smoothing wet hair, can dull hair or cause tangles. It is also a strong humectant. It attracts moisture to the hair and retains it in large quantities. This means that in hot and humid climates, it can cause frizz and roughness in the hair.

Polyquaternium-4: It forms a film on the hair and is commonly used as a thickener and in styling products such as gels. Polyquaternium-4 is difficult to remove even with sulfate shampoos.

Polyquaternium-7: Provides good moisturization and softness. Also a good hair smoothing agent. Produces volume and shine. Polyquaternium-7 has been used commercially in several different conditioning shampoos and deep conditioning products for curly or coiled hair.

Polyquaternium-10: Usually used in shampoo smoothing and styling products. It prevents frizz, improves manageability and sets curls. However, polyquaternium-10 binds to the hair and is difficult to remove even with sulfate shampoos.

Polyquaternium-11: Provides a light hold and is therefore commonly used in mousses. Conversely, it may leave hair feeling sticky before or after rinsing with water.

Medium build-up potential (average molecular weight polyquaternium)

Polyquaternium-55: It will over-condition fine or low density hair. However, it is a good heat protectant for colored hair.

Polyquaternium-59: It protects against the sun because of its UV-absorbing properties. It will help you if you are often exposed to the sun.

Low possibility of accumulation (low molecular weight polyquaternary ammonium salt)

Polyquaternium-6: Binds tightly to damaged hair. However, polyquaternium-6 is more of a lubricating conditioner than a film-forming polymer and is therefore less likely to build up.

Polyquaternium-37: Provides good moisturization and softness. It provides volume and shine and is suitable for limp, thinning or fine hair. It thickens hair without weighing it down. Polyquaternium-37 does not form a film.

Polyquaternium-44: Less likely to cause hair buildup than guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

Polyquaternium-47: Softens and smoothes hair.

Polyquaternium-69: Provides a styling effect and is often used in gels. It is a film-forming agent but can be removed with 1-2 shampoos.

Polyquaternium-87: Less likely to cause hair buildup than guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Good smoothing and frizz control. Forms a film, but can be removed with 1-2 shampoos.

It is not known what the build-up potential of these polyquaternium salts is:

Polyquaternium-16: Adds volume to the hair shaft. Often found in hairsprays.

Polyquaternium-22: Makes hair more manageable.

Polyquaternium-28: Provides hold to gels.